One week backpacking around Bosnia and Herzegovina

Our first taste of Bosnia and Herzegovina was the small town of Trebinje. It was a simple little place with a small old town and a church atop a hill. We stopped for cheap beer at €1 a pint and then made our way to the church which was so beautiful on the inside with…

Hiking to the impressive Accursed Mountains | Albania

We were in awe of the Albanian alps so I researched other hikes in the area and discovered a little village called Lepushe. Getting there was challenging as we discovered the one van heading there was cancelled due to a catholic holiday. The host of the guesthouse we were planning on staying at happened to…

Blue pools, waterfalls and meadows | Hiking around Theth, Albania

After yesterdays long hike from Valbona to Theth we checked into a delightful guesthouse. It was brand new, sparkling clean and super comfortable. The only downside was just as we were making the booking someone else beat us to it and we lost one of the nights. It still looked like the nicest option though…

Hiking from Valbona to Theth in May via the winter route

Snow lingers on the Albanian alps well into June and after doing lots of research I discovered the pass between Valbona and Theth was actually closed in early May when we planned to hike it. I spent a lot of time emailing guesthouses, tourist offices and Balkan Facebook groups trying to get information on when…

Hiking in Valbona | The Albanian Alps

Valbona wasn’t quite what we had in mind. There were mountains all around us with low lying cloud and a wet drizzle in the air. Some people had warned us not to bother coming here as the pass was too dangerous at this time of year and that we should just go directly to Theth…

Crossing the border into Albania and the Koman Lake ferry

It was about 28° as we set off with our backpacks to a random street corner in Ulcinj waiting for a shared car to take us to Shkoder in Albania. Our instructions were to wait beside an abandoned fire truck, which also happened to be where the neighbourhood bins were stored and overflowing, causing a…

Searching for the best beaches and old towns along the Montenegro coast

Locals describe the coastal town of Budva as an absolute disaster. What was once a quaint village has now expanded into an overdeveloped seaside resort. While it still has the beautiful old town, everywhere else is built up with high-rise apartments ready to be rented out in the high season. We weren’t sure whether it…

Five days exploring the Bay of Kotor | Montengro

Kotor bay is pretty much the reason I’ve wanted to explore Montenegro for so long. It looks like a Norwegian fjord has been transported to the Balkan’s with dramatic peaks rising around the bay. We booked an apartment a couple of kilometres from the old town and arrived to find no one home. We were…

Chateaus, crepes and cliffs in northern France

We tried to stop at the Loir Valley to see some chateaus but the rain was making it miserable with a grey haze blocking the views. But after four days in France we finally had some sunshine so we headed to Château de Saint-Germain-de-Livet, said to be one of the finest chateaus in the Normandy…