Cloud inversions are one of my favourite natural wonders, so whenever the conditions were right we’d head up to Madeira’s highest points to try and capture the sun rising above a sea of clouds. 

The day before was a complete flop, as we stood on a windy ledge engulfed by fog. But today was a new day – and we were treated to a delightful show as we stood above the clouds which swooped below us. 

The clouds were moving fast to the naked eye, but filming the scene on a time-lapse really emphasised how quickly they were drifting by – like waves in the sea, rolling below the jagged peaks. 

As the sun rose it hit the clouds, making them look like dancing flames. It was a phenomenal sight and one that was enjoyed with just a handful of other people. 

After sunrise, we set off on a drive, descending into the dense fog. It felt like the weather had changed in a split second, from crisp blue skies to damp fog. It was a dangerous route in such conditions because free-roaming cows would suddenly appear on the road. 

We stopped off at the popular Fanal Forest which is one of Madeira’s top sights. The place had a mystical feel, with spooky trees appearing through the mist. It was an interesting sight, but pretty overrated in our opinion. 

We opted to continue driving to the northern side of the island. I assumed as we drove away from the mountains we’d escape the clouds and bask in sunshine – but that wasn’t the case. It was grey and gloomy with a wet drizzle in the air. 

There was a viewpoint along the road which I’m sure would be spectacular in good weather because even on a grey day the layers of cliffs looked fabulous. 

One of the north coast’s most popular sights was Seixal beach, famous for its black sand. I didn’t quite get the hype though, maybe because we’d seen black sand beaches before, but it just wasn’t wow on a moody, grey, day.

As we continued east the views improved, and so did the weather. A series of tunnels led us beneath lush green peaks that seemed to rise from the sea, and every time we exited a tunnel a new view was revealed. 

We diverted off the main road when we saw the sun shining on the valley to our right. A steep track led us up to a little church where we had a stunning view of the village nestled beneath forested slopes, and steep mountain peaks rising in the distance. 

Not too far away was Boaventura, where we discovered one of the greatest cafe locations in the world. It was set on a grassy bank above the sea, and ahead of it was a large, pointy mountain covered in lush greenery. Craig grabbed a beer while I opted for my new favourite drink; a Nikita, which is like a pineapple and beer flavoured milkshake. 

We sat in lounging chairs, soaking up the view while the sea crashed into rocks a hundred meters below us. It was such a beautiful location that we ended up spending a couple of hours basking in the sunshine, ordering some coffee and a huge pastel de nata to boost our energy and continue the road trip. 

We ended up driving back west, hoping to enjoy the rock pools at Porto Moniz, but sadly one of the main pools was closed during winter, so we just sat on a wall and watched the waves crashing into the cliffs. 

It was a beautiful area though, and we decided that we’d return another day, to see more of the north and venture round to the wild west coast of Madeira.